Potato
Pancakes
by Charlie Burke
Simple and versatile, potato pancakes appeal to everyone from
kids to sophisticated diners. There are many recipes for them, and I find myself
changing them according to the meal and to my mood. During the holidays,
entertaining often means serving special meals such as rack of lamb, expensive
cuts of beef and favorite recipes for fish and poultry. A crispy potato pancake
helps elevate any of these, and with the addition of appropriate herbs it will
complement any main course. Timing the cooking is easy because the pan can be
pulled off the heat if finishing too soon and returned to heat up as the main
course finishes. Cooking it ahead and reheating it at serving time works as
well.
Adding finely chopped onions, scallions, or shallots works with
any meal, but specific herbs can be added to match what is being served. I find
chopped rosemary works with any lamb dish as well as with grilled swordfish.
Sage goes well with pork or poultry, as would thyme, and a few tablespoons of
grated parmesan adds depth to the flavor. Omit adding the onions, herbs and
cheese if you wish. It is hard to go wrong, so experiment and find your own
preferences.
Choose baking potatoes, russet or any starchy variety, locally
grown of course. Some recipes call for mixing an egg which helps hold the
pancake together, but we usually omit it, finding the potato starch is
sufficient if excess water is removed. If the pancake comes apart when it is
turned, it is easily reformed in the pan by pressing with a spatula. Although
I've made them in a stainless steel frying pan, using a non- stick pan makes it
easier to turn or remove the pancake.
Four servings as a side dish:
4
medium potatoes, peeled
1 egg,
beaten (optional)
Salt
and freshly ground pepper
1-2
tablespoons finely chopped onion, shallot or scallion
1 ½
tablespoon fresh herbs or 1 generous teaspoon dry
(optional)
2
tablespoons grated parmesan or other dry cheese
(optional)
Grate potatoes on the coarse side of a four-sided grater onto a
clean kitchen towel. Pull the corners together and twist the towel tightly to
remove as much water as possible from the potatoes (sometimes a surprising
volume). In a bowl, add salt and pepper to taste and mix. Add egg and your
choice of other ingredients, if using, and mix well.
Heat a medium frying pan, preferably with sloping sides, over
low to moderate heat. Film the heated pan with olive oil and add potatoes,
pressing them to form an even pancake which should be approximately ¾ inch
thick. Adjust heat so that browning occurs slowly, permitting the inside to
cook. When the bottom is nicely browned (lift an edge to see), shake the pan to
loosen the pancake, remove from the heat and place an inverted plate over the
pan. Turn the pancake out onto the plate, add a small amount of oil to the pan
and slide the pancake back to continue cooking. Continue cooking until the
second side is well browned and the inside is done (use a knife to make a small
slit to check). If it is done before the rest of the meal, pull it off the heat
and reheat just before serving.
This easily prepared and versatile side can be served under,
atop or beside the meat or fish, adding flavor and visual appeal to your
presentation. It is also a great way to get the kids to eat potatoes!
An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice president of
the New Hampshire Farmer's Market Association (www.nhfma.org). His column &
recipes appear weekly in The Heart of New England's newsletter... get a free
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heartofnewengland-subscribe@yahoogroups.com or visit
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