By Charlie Burke
Coleslaw often seems to be an afterthought, cloyingly sweet and
either too wet or dry. With the correct balance of acidity and sweetness and
with proper seasoning, however, it can shine.
I realized this when a college friend of our son Michael
introduced me to someone, saying: "...he makes the best coleslaw." I was taken
aback because it had been over a year since he had eaten at our house! The
coarsely ground pepper and celery seeds add essential flavor, and I prefer using
equal parts of regular and low fat mayonnaise (Cains in our home), although feel
free to use either alone. Mixing the salt, pepper and celery seeds with the
shredded cabbage and carrots before adding the mayonnaise mixture ensures their
Look for a shiny dense head of cabbage and use crisp fresh
carrots, both of which are available even in winter months. The sweetness of
both vegetables will vary, so you may want to add a small amount of sugar or
vinegar when tasting after the final mixing.