By Charlie Burke
It's frequently said that the test of a good cook - or
restaurant- is the ability to cook really good roast chicken. I've always found
this somewhat amusing, because the process is really not that difficult, and,
once mastered, produces reliably good results. I suppose the converse is true:
if unable to produce a crisp juicy roast chicken, then one cannot be considered
an accomplished cook.
Properly done, roast chicken is as appropriate for entertaining
as it is for an informal family meal, and many fine restaurants are unable to
remove it from their menus because of its popularity. As in all cooking,
attention to a few important details makes all the difference. First, the size
and quality of the chicken is basic. Choose fresh locally raised (preferably
free range) chicken as a first choice; kosher or naturally raised commercial
chickens are the next best option.
Many "roasters" sold now are 5 -6 pounds, which are somewhat
large for high heat roasting. I prefer 2 ½ - 3 pound chickens, cooking two if
we're feeding guests. If not using kosher chickens, consider salting or brining
before cooking. Salting the chicken skin and cavity with 1 teaspoon of salt per
pound for 24 - 48 hours results in tender, moist meat, as does brining for 12 -
24 hours (add 1 cup kosher salt/ gallon of water, submerge chicken and keep in
refrigerator). Bring the chicken to room temperature, rinse and pat dry before
cooking.
If you do not have time for salting or brining, simply salt and
pepper the dried chicken before cooking. Adding fat or oil to the skin is
unnecessary, but wiping the skin with lemon juice promotes browning and crisping
of the skin. We usually add a lemon sliced in half and several garlic cloves or
shallots to the cavity, along with herbs such as sage, rosemary or tarragon. The
basic recipe stays the same and permits many variations limited only by your
imagination. I remember cooking a recipe of Jasper Whites' which called for
coating the chicken with Chinese 5 spice powder and enjoying a unique and
delicious meal. You also have the option of placing potatoes, carrots or your
favorite vegetables in the pan with the chicken which, served with a mixed
salad, makes a complete meal.
This is high heat cooking and the temperature rises very quickly
at the end of cooking, so close attention is required then. Since cooking
continues after the pan is removed from the oven, try to remove it 5 degrees or
so below optimal temperature (180 degrees in thick portion of the thigh). If you
do not have a thermometer, the juices at the thigh joint should be barely pink
when the skin is slit; with sitting for 10 to 15 minutes they should become
clear.
For 2 -3 servings: